Livingstone owes its existence to the Victoria Falls. It was named after the missionary and explorer Dr. David Livingstone, the first European to discover, name and tell the rest of world about the mighty waterfall. In 1904 the bridge was built, taking the railway across the Zambezi just below the Victoria Falls to what is now Zimbabwe. Livingstone was founded on completion of the bridge in 1905. Residents of an earlier riverside settlement called Old Drift moved to the new site beside the railway line 09 km upstream from the falls. The move was instigated by the high prevalence of malaria on the mosquito-infested, swampy banks of the Zambezi. For a while the town was capital of what was known as North-Western Rhodesia, before the capital moved to Lusaka in 1931. The main street is Mosi-oa-Tunya Road, sections of which are lined with classic colonial buildings. Many of the town’s 100-year-old buildings with their wide verandas and corrugated iron roofs are still in use, and are typical of the English settler architecture.
Although a little neglected, the town has colonial character and easy-going African charm - unlike its neighbour, the Zimbabwean town of Victoria Falls on the opposite side of the Zambezi, a victim of bad town planning in the 1970s. Livingstone used to be the more visited town by those wanting to view the falls, then the new town of Victoria Falls took over. Today people are returning to the Zambian side because of the ongoing political problems in Zimbabwe. Livingstone has been rejuvenated. New hotels are being built along the banks of the Zambezi, and houses in town are being restored and opened as guest houses. The main road now boasts a number of eating and drinking venues and is once again full of safari vehicles and transfer buses. A new shopping centre "Fallsway Park" on the outskirt of the town offers all facilities from a Spar supermarket to a Subway restaurant, internet cafe, art galeries, etc...
How do I get there?
There are daily flights to Livingstone from Johannesburg in South Africa that connect with all the international airlines flying in and out of Jo’burg. Nationwide, British Airways and South Aftrican Airways fly daily from Johanesburg to Livingstone and the airport has just been extended to receive direct flights from Europe. Livingstone airport is right on the edge of town and it’s easy to grab a taxi or arrange a transfer. Don't forget there is a US$20 departure tax when departing from Livingstone, payable in US$ cash, Euros, Rand, Pounds, but not in local currency.
If you’re coming from Zimbabwe by road, cross the border from the town of Victoria Falls over the famous Victoria Falls Bridge, 11 km from Livingstone. From Botswana, cross the border at Kazungula by ferry, then drive 60 km east toward Livingstone. Lusaka is 470 km along the Great North Road. Many decent buses connect Lusaka to Livingstone each day.
Trains run every second day from Livingstone to Lusaka but there are slow and unreliable. There are good train connections from Kapiri Mposhi (50km north of lusaka) to Dar es Salaam in Tanzania. Livingstone is visited by just about every tour operator in Africa as the Victoria Falls are an obligatory destination on any tour of Southern Africa, so access is easy.
Where can I change money?
The local currency is called "Kwacha". It fluctuates between 3800 to 4200 Kwacha for one USD.
There are three banks along the main street, Barclays, Standard Bank and Zanaco. All have ATMs which work with VISA cards. Barclays also has a branch with an ATM at the Sun International hotel's activity centre, next to the Victoria Falls. If you have a Master card, you'll have to go inside the bank to draw money. Only a few of the Barclays ATM machines in Lusaka accept Master Cards.
The best place to change money is in one of the numerous bureaux de change along the main road. Shop around for the best rates. At the moment, the best rates are usually find at the post office bureau de change. But we suggest you shop around a bit, as the bureau de change are all within short walking distance of each others.
Don't change your money on the street. The guy's are expert in screwing you off. Even if the rate looks attractive, don't be tempted...you'll regret it.
You can pay for all your activities, hotels, backpackers, using your credit cards, or TC's but it attracts a 5% surcharge.
How do I get around?
Everything you need in Livingstone in terms of banks, restaurants, curio markets and museums is located somewhere along the Mosi-o-tunya Road. This is the main drag that runs the length of the town, so it’s easy enough to walk between them. It’s quite a long road so you may need to grab a taxi to get from one end to the other. These are parked conveniently at many junctions along the road. Taxis are cheap but you’ll need to negotiate the fare before getting in. You’ll also need to take a taxi to get to the Victoria Falls, 10 km away. The main backpacker lodges in town offer their own taxis services to the falls. Enquire at reception for more details.
All the adventure companies also offer transfers so alternatively you can ask to be dropped at the falls after you’ve finished an activity. There are plenty of taxis in the car park near the entrance gate to ferry you back to town.
Where can I eat and drink?
Livingstone offers all kind of restaurants, from local cuisine to ***** stars buffets at the Royal Livingstone.
Ocean Basket. Very good restaurant and the best value for money in town. You can choose from a relatively inexpensive fish and chips, to the huge delicious, but expensive, sea food platter. Situated along the Mosi O' Tunya road, opposite Fawlty Tower backpacker. Our favorite is an haloumi cheese starter followed by a fish and chips main course. The whole lot for 15USD. Watch out for the price of drinks...
Hippo's pub and grill. Good steaks and cold beers, a great mix. Under a huge thatched roof, situated behind the Fawty Towers backpacker. Can be pretty busy on some nights, but you can wait at the bar and sip some beers while waiting for a table.
Ngoma Zanga. Traditionnal cuisine, offering a taste of what Zambian food is all about. From nshima and relish, Mopane worms, Chibuku beer, dancing and drumming. Situated next to the Ocean basket in the main street of town.
Zambezi Sun hotel. Three star hotel situated next to the Victoria Falls, approximately 8km from the centre of Livingstone. A simple formula with one huge dinner buffet for 35USD. A great spot, and settings signed by world famous hotel chain Sun International (The hotel chain that made Sun City.) Another one of our favorite is the breakfast. Same as dinner, A huge buffet full of graze for 15USD each.
Royal Livingstone. Five star hotel situated along the banks of the Zambezi, only two kilometers from the Victoria falls. Amazing view of the falls from their wooden deck. Relatively expensive but worth the experience. Our favorites are the "all you can eat" buffet breakfast with sushi, cheeses, pastries for 25USD. Also the "high Tea", served between 15h and 17h each day offers for 20USD per person, a mega pastry buffet anyone would drull over... The dinner is good, but the hotel's formal atmosphere can make you feel a little uncorfortable if you're not use to...
Rapsody. Situated at the new shopping mall "Fallsway Park", a trendy cafe lounge with restaurant. Good food. A little on the expensive side.
Ngolide lodge. An great, authentic Indian restaurant. Situated along Mosi O'Tunya road, next to the customs building. If you like Indian food, this is the place to go.
Funky Munky. A pizzeria situated in the area called 217, next to Fawlty Tower backpacker
Fez Bar. The local hangout, cold beers, bus size hamburgers, french fries, a good value for money. Situated next to the fire brigade, a short walk from the Livingstone Museum. The place to go for late nights
The Laughin Dragon. Like any other town in the world, Livingstone hosts its Chinese restaurant. A little on the dodgy side, you can still pick up some good value meals.The soups and noodles are pretty good value. Situated in a street paralell to the main Mosi O' Tunya road, close to Jolly Boys backpackers.
What can I see and do?
The Livingstone Museum is the country’s largest and oldest museum, dating back to the 1930s. It has exhibits on the archaeology of the region, cultural displays of handicrafts and musical instruments, and a large collection of David Livingstone memorabilia (including some of his journals) donated by the Livingstone family.
Maramba market is a bustling colourful market where the local Zambians come to shop. The market sells everything from fruit and vegetables, plastic buckets and sacks of charcoal, bicycles, beds, second-hand clothes and shoes. You’ll also see edible caterpillars, baskets and brooms made of grass, pots and pans made of road signs, etc. If you need to renew your wardrobe, this is the place to go. Called "Salaula", there are hundreds of stands selling second hand clothes given by the rest of the world. If you have time you can pick up some real good branded clothe for next to nothing. This business killed indeed the textile industry in Zambia!!!
Curios are available from two different markets. One is situated in the Mukuni park in the centre of town midway along the main street. The other is next to the entrance to the Victoria Falls. They are both good and at the same prices.
For steam engine enthusiasts, the Railway Museum houses a collection of old steam locomotives and vintage coaches, and some old photographs illustrating life in the pioneer days of the town.